On the heels of the Met Gala, one of the fashion industry’s biggest nights, advocates in New York are pushing the legislature to consider the Fashion Act — which aims to limit the environmental impact of fashion waste.
Advocates are asking lawmakers to show their passion for fashion by passing the Fashion Act, which would require companies to map out their supply chains and commit to reducing environmental impacts over time.
Assemblywoman Anna Kelles from the 125th District sponsors the bill. The Democrat says it would cut down on the ills of what’s known as “fast fashion.”
“If they don't, this state has the ability to fine them up to 2% of their gross income. This is all companies that have over $100 million gross income,” Kelles said. “This is a reasonable rational, good, common sense, good government piece of legislation that we must get done this year.”
Kelles says the growing industry, which produces trendy and typically low-quality apparel and footwear, is increasing costs for New Yorkers.
“[In]2020 alone $95 billion was spent by the United States in response to the climate disasters that this country experienced, that is unacceptable,” Kelles said. “Those $95 [b]illion could have gone into housing, affordable housing, could have gone into transportation infrastructure, could have gone into great jobs could have gone into incentivizing manufacturers to come back to the United States. There are so many things that we could be doing, if we were just responsible in the moment.”
Ken Pokalsky, Vice President of the Business Council of New York, says while the bill is aimed at targeting corporate businesses, it could impact small ones too.
“The smaller the company, the fewer technical and financial resources, the harder these types of mandates become to comply with,” Pokalsky said. “So, I think it will, even though the mandates on the large company, there's going to be effects felt by smaller companies as well.”
Mixed in the crowd of actresses, public officials and fashion lovers on a recent lobby day is 13-year-old Francesca Thornton. The eighth-grader attends the Robert C. Parker School in Wynantskill. Thornton says she is writing a passion paper for class about consumerism.
“People at my age really listen,” Thornton said. “So, if I start doing something that my friends don't do, they'll start saying, ‘Oh, look at this.’ So, it's almost like a ripple effect.”
Vanessa Fajans-Turner is the executive director of Environmental Advocates NY. She says the U.S. ranks second behind China in fashion waste with 17 million tons each year. Since New York is a global hub for fashion and design, Fajans-Turner says the bill could level the playing field for all.
“It rewards entities that are doing the right thing by giving them more access to markets, by freeing them from penalties. This bill is meant to incentivize and normalize what many small businesses in New York are already doing,” Fajans-Turner said.
She adds that shoppers can limit their footprint by reducing consumption and giving items a second life.
“Another thing that can be done is repairs we have often stopped thinking about replacing or mending torn clothing or clothing with a dysfunctional zipper,” Fajans-Turner said.
Companies like Patagonia are supporting the bill. In a letter to Governor Kathy Hochul and fellow lawmakers, company CEO Ryan Gellert called for “more regulation and accountability of the $2.5 trillion apparel industry.” Gellert says all companies should commit to bettering the environment.
Governor Kathy Hochul's office did not immediately respond to request for comment.
The legislative session is scheduled to end June 6th.
