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'Do I need it, or do I just want this?' : SNAP recipients with food sensitivities struggle under funding cuts

One Church Street in Johnstown runs their food pantry in a similar way to a grocery store.
Aaron Shellow-Lavine
/
WAMC
One Church Street in Johnstown runs their food pantry in a similar way to a grocery store.

As the federal government shutdown continues, food assistance benefits for millions of Americans remain in limbo. The partial suspension of SNAP benefits complicates an already difficult situation for recipients with food sensitivities.

42 million Americans receive benefits from the federal government’s Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program.

Typically, recipients are able to spend their SNAP funds as they choose at local food providers. Reduced funding and no clear timeline for when recipients will start receiving assistance has left many scrambling to find sustenance.

“I have allergies and food sensitivities. Not all the food pantries are understanding. And for those who are understanding they have a limited amount of the foods that I am able to eat and it just makes it really difficult,” said Darlene McGraw.

Darlene McGraw has lived in Saratoga County for a decade – she’s allergic to tree nuts and can’t eat foods abundant with nitrates due to chronic migraines, meaning processed meats, vegetables like broccoli and cauliflower, as well as citrus fruits are not options.

McGraw says that without SNAP the arithmetic of feeding herself gets even more complicated.

“Is it worth going to a fast-food restaurant and buying something for a dollar or two here or there and using a coupon like that knowing that the stuff that you’ll eat at a fast-food place is going to get you sick? Even though you just ate something for a dollar or two knowing that you’re going to get sick later, is it worth that? Versus eating something that’s healthier and it will sustain you for the day or however long it’s supposed to and you’re not going to have to go back to the doctors or hospital, urgent care because you got sick from it,” said McGraw.

On top of needing to find foods to fit her needs, McGraw is disabled. She has to take public transportation or bicycle to get food – something that gets trickier if she has to go to a food pantry instead of a grocery store.

“I know a lot of people think Saratoga County is all wealth. But that is not true. We have two housing authorities in Saratoga County where we have people who are low income. And we do have a lot of low-income people who live throughout the whole county including the upper side in Day, Corinth where there is not public transportation. And the people up there, how are they supposed to get to things when there is no public transportation and they’re not a senior citizen so they don’t qualify for the senior van and they’re not a youth so they don’t qualify for youth services?” said McGraw.

In New York’s 20th Congressional district, which encompasses portions of Saratoga, Schenectady, and Albany counties, there were 78,000 people on SNAP benefits as of June 2024.

Debra Winchell lives just to the west in Gloversville. She’s been receiving SNAP benefits since retiring in September, about $150 a month, but she currently has no money on her EBT card.

“Well, you have to examine everything and think, ‘do I need it or do I just want this?’ For instance, I’m a great reader. I’d love to buy a new book, but I’m not going to buy a new book because I don’t know what’s going to happen. It reminds me of the Great Depression my parents grew up in it’s like: reuse it, make it, or do without,” said Winchell.

Winchell is allergic to yeast and corn, disqualifying many mainstay items at food pantries.

“Fulton County offered bagged sandwiches. That’s not helpful at all. Because I can’t eat bread. I assume they try to sneak in some cheese in there that I can’t have. So, I am anticipating going in there and saying, ‘well, I can eat the onions,’ and being reduced to something ridiculous. If it’s carrots I can deal with it,” said Winchell.

For folks like Winchell and McGraw, some food pantries may pose difficulties and exposure risks not seen at a grocery store.

There are some food assistance organizations, however, that are looking to keep food accessible.

Sheila Krupski is a co-director of the Shenendehowa Helping Hands Food Pantry. She says they regularly serve around 150 households every month, but she guesses in the past three months that figure has risen by almost 20%.

Krupski says the pantry is set up like a grocery store, she's not a fan of the phrase "beggars can't be choosers."

“They choose the foods that they want, they choose the foods that they know their families will enjoy. But then also we feel it reduces waste because you’re not going to get a canned item that your kid is just not going to eat. And as you say we shouldn’t be forcing people to eat food that they don’t want. We have plenty as long as we can give them an offering, they choose what they like,” said Krupski.

Pitney Meadows Community Farm in Saratoga Springs has begun to rally their food provider network in the wake of SNAP reductions – annually they provide 100,000 meals worth of fresh produce to organizations throughout the region.

Dan Williams manages the Food Sovereignty Programs at the farm.

“It is a great niche we are able to fill. As a small-scale vegetable grower, growing a whole bunch of variety of crops we have a really unique opportunity to support these pantries with the short-term perishables as well as some of the storage crops that we’re moving into now. But, some of those things that they’re not going to be able to purchase or receive otherwise,” said Williams.

Governor Kathy Hochul authorized the use of $106 million in state funds to help run emergency food assistance programs throughout the state.

Williams says it’s going to take small organizations stepping up to help fill the $650 million hole left by a lack of SNAP funding.

“Our pantries in this area already have a 300% increase over pre-pandemic levels of people they’re serving. And to add on to an even larger demographic of people relying on SNAP benefits. What we are attempting to do is tap into our small, very focused network and do the bit that we can. We’re stepping up and doing what we can. But it’s not a replacement, it’s not even on the same scale remotely as to what would be available with those SNAP benefits in place,” said Williams.