What's for Dinner?

11/26/03

Turkey Tetrazzini

Turkey Leftovers Thanks to everyone who wrote in with their leftover turkey suggestions. The one I've chosen to feature, Turkey Tetrazzini, was suggested by a few listeners, notably Polly Law and Lisa Harris (who is a prep cook at the Bobcat Cafe & Brewery in Bristol, Vermont). Other techniques were offered as well, and you'll find information on these options below.

This dish was named after a famously zaftig Italian soprano, Luisa Tetrazzini, who toured the United States between 1910 and 1913. Apparently, she particularly enjoyed pasta, and this dish was made for her with freshly cooked turkey. Today, of course, it's generally made the week after Thanksgiving with leftover meat from the holiday bird.

• 1 lb spaghetti
• 5 Tbs butter
• 3 Tbs flour
• 2 c chicken broth
• 1 c heavy cream
• 2 Tbs dry sherry
• 3/4 c parmesan cheese
• pepper, to taste
• 3/4 lb mushrooms, sliced
• 3 green onions, trimmed and sliced
• 4 c leftover turkey meat, diced
• 1/2 c pimentos, chopped

2. Cook the spaghetti in salted water and drain.

3. Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour until smooth, then add the broth and continue to whisk until the sauce thickens, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the cream, sherry, 1/4 c of the parmesan cheese, and the pepper. Cook an additional two minutes, then remove from the heat.

4. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet and saute the mushrooms and green onions until the mushrooms give up their moisture, about 3 minutes.

5. Toss the spaghetti in a large bowl with the sauce, the mushroom mixture, the turkey, and the pimentos. Transfer to the baking dish, top with the remaining parmesan, and bake uncovered until browned and bubbling, about 20 minutes.

Tips
* Lisa Harris reports that her mother makes this dish a bit differently. She sautes chopped onion in a little butter and then adds cream of mushroom soup, milk, parmesan cheese, and the turkey, cooking the mixture until it's heated all the way through. Then she tosses in some cooked spaghetti, tops the casserole with more parmesan cheese, and bakes it for 15-20 minutes.

* Polly Law's mom used, instead of the green onions, "white onions and garlic (quite daring for Ohio in the 1960s). The slightly undercooked pasta was distributed around the perimeter of the dish. The onions, garlic, and mushrooms were sauteed in sherry and olive oil and then combined with the turkey and piled into the center of the pasta ring. Finally, a bechamel sauce was poured over it all, and the grated cheese over that. It was baked until a luscious crust formed and the juices bubbled. We had a beautiful wide and shallow Dansk dish that was perfect for this. Unfortunately, it had been scorched one too many times, so by the time my mother's house was being cleaned out it was no longer usable. All it could hold were wonderful aromatic memories."

OTHER OPTIONS
* Lisa Harris is planning to make pot pies. "It's easy," she writes. "Buy or make a pastry crust. (I like half-butter, half-shortening.) Dice up some veggies such as carrots, onions, celery, parsnips, turnips--whatever you like. Sweat them in some oil. Season with salt and pepper. Pour them along with the diced turkey into an unlined pie plate--or, better yet, a cast-iron skillet. Make a light bechamel or white sauce seasoned with herbs such as sage, parsley, and thyme (or simply use leftover gravy). Pour the sauce over the vegetables and turkey, top with the pastry, cut a few slits in the top for venting, and bake until the crust browns. Because everything is already cooked and hot, this doesn't take very long, perhaps 30 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit."

* Lisa will also be making a savory bread pudding: "Prepare the vegetables and turkey as for a pot pie, but place them in a casserole instead with torn-up or cubed bread. Beat a few eggs with milk, herbs, salt, pepper, and maybe some cheese. Pour the liquid over the casserole and bake until the custard sets. Sorry, I don't have set amounts or times. I make it up as I go!"

* Roundtable producer Deirdre Murphy uses the turkey carcass to make soup: "After picking off the meat, simmer the carcass for 30 minutes at a low heat, then pull off whatever meat is left. While the water and bones continue to boil away, I prep some vegetables (carrots, onions, celery, and usually something a little different such as mushrooms or corn). I saute the vegetables using a mixture of spices and add some butter for a little additional fat and flavor. When they're ready, I remove the carcass and strain the stock to get out the odd bits of cartilage and overcooked flesh that have come loose. Then I return the stock to the pot, add the veggies and reserved meat. (I even use a ladleful of the stock to deglaze the veggie pan.) When the soup is done, I like to serve it with dumplings. I make the dough while the bones are simmering, and it doesn't really matter how long I take because the stock just gets more flavorful."

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Laura Morrill has also developed this method for leftover turkey enchiladas: Mix shredded leftover turkey with sour cream (or plain yogurt) and some grated cheese (such as Monterey Jack, cheddar, or mozzarella). Spoon the mixture onto one side of a flour tortilla and roll it up, as a cigar. Place the rolled enchiladas in a baking pan and pour over them a jar of chunky salsa. Top with a little more cheese and bake in a 350-degree over until bubbly, about 30 minutes.

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