David Rubel's

What's For Dinner?

10/26/05 

Spaghetti Carbonara

(serves two adults and two children)

The tricky thing about this dish is keeping the eggs creamy while still cooking them sufficiently. Putting all the ingredients together in the skillet is the best method I’ve found.

• 1 lb thick spaghetti
• 1/2 lb bacon (or pancetta)
• 1 medium onion
• 2 eggs
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 c Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 2 oz.), freshly grated
• a pinch of kosher salt
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• a handful of fresh parsley
• 1/4 c dry white wine

1. Put on salted water for the pasta.

2. Cut the bacon slices into half-inch pieces (or dice the pancetta). Finely chop the onion.

3. Cook the bacon over medium-high heat in a large heavy skillet (large enough to hold the pasta as well). Once the fat begins to render, add the onion.

4. Give the bacon and onion a few minutes’ head start, then cook the spaghetti until al dente.

5. Meanwhile, whisk together the eggs, cheese, salt, and pepper. Chop the parsley.

6. Drain the spaghetti.

7. By this time, the onion should have turned golden brown and the bacon should have begun to crisp. Use the wine to deglaze the pan, then add the drained pasta to the skillet and toss well. Next, turn down the heat and add the egg mixture, continuing to toss until done, about 30-45 seconds (see note below).

8. Serve with the chopped parsley sprinkled on top.

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Tips

* Use good-quality bacon that isn’t overly fatty or salty. If you can’t, make sure to pour off most of the rendered fat before you add the onions to the skillet.

* As many of you know, there has been a lot of talk lately about egg safety because of the danger of salmonella. The Food and Drug Administration recommends that egg yolks be cooked thoroughly until they are firm. Overcooking, however, can quickly kill a good spaghetti carbonara, which is supposed to be creamy. You’ll have to make this judgment yourself. If you are concerned about salmonella, keep the coated spaghetti in the skillet until you are sure that all harmful bacteria have been killed by the heat.

* There are so few ingredients in this dish that you can’t get away with using bad cheese. Parmigiano-Reggiano is the best. Use it. You only need a couple of dollars’ worth.

If you have tried one of these recipes and have an improvement or tip or variation to suggest, please e-mail David at dinner@wamc.org. Also feel free to send along your own family cuisine recipes. You can even request dishes that you'd like David to present in the future.

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David Rubel is president of Agincourt Press, a book production company in Chatham, New York. He spends his days writing American history, then heads home after work to cook for his wife and two young children. His most recent book is The Story of America (DK, 2002).